Today I’m visiting Ostia Antica, the ruins of a Roman town. It’s peaceful here, a nice break from the scooters of Rome. I’m having a little picnic with clementines, sausage and bread near a schoolyard full of noisy little girls in light blue smocks and black shoes. A dog wanders over and lays by my feet. Later a Japanese woman takes a picture of me feeding a cat a piece of sausage.
After a week in Rome, I took a train south to the port town of Bari where I connected with the ferry to Corfu. The Mediterranean refugee crisis of that moment had resulted from the collapse of the Albanian economy and, as I walked through the port, I passed groups of mute, placeless people who had just crossed the sea on rafts and had been herded into makeshift pens. Once on the ferry, because this was the offseason for tourism, I found myself alone with a group of Italian truck drivers. They chain-smoked, passed a bottle and, when they looked in my direction, would laugh mockingly and say something that ended with the word ‘signora.’ Eighteen hours later, I arrived in the port city of Corfu, rented a room and tried to sleep while I listened to noisy sex through a wall with a rough-hewn wooden cross hanging on it.
credits
from Path Through the Wilderness,
released September 7, 2019
Reid Kruger - Drums
Tom Schroeder - Guitar
Jeremy Ylvisaker - Guitar
Jonathan Zorn - Bass
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